The Condiment Queen

Tamarai

Another in the seemingly endless line of multipurpose restaurants, Tamarai is about to launch a new Winter menu. I was lucky enough to be invited along to taste some of the scrumptiousness that will be on offer before it gets released to the rest of the world.

It's an unusual proposition - pan-asian but without Japanese and with modern Indian. Typically, pan asian tends to be 'Japanese/Chinese/Thai' focussed. This is a strength and a key differentiator - no Salt & Pepper prawns here - instead we have enormous (as in the size of a childs fist) prawns in a sticky caramel sauce.

No spring rolls but lightly spiced tofu coated in a crisp breadcrumb and a hoisin dipping sauce - delicious and stealthily vegan. Fois Gras is not really my thing these days but coupled with minced beef in a wonton 'pot sticker' it was quite tasty (if a little bit unethical) and very rich. Like its other Pan-Asian companions you can order tasters from each section of the menu without having to regulate yourself to a 'starter/main/dessert' dichotomy. Dessert was quite nice - a fig sprinkled with sugar and given a little blow torch treatment and a flicker of gold leaf, kumquat cream were lovely but the main event -  a deep-fried, chocolate coated banana was a little too rich and oily for my taste.

The room is definitely more of a winter venue - black walls with moody red and blue lighting - it is a popular Christmas Party venue and the cocktail and wine list (which is selected by the Guardian's Tim Atkin) has some wonderfullight reds and flavourful whites that complement the excellent food.

Tamarai
167 Drury lane, covent           garden, london
02078319399

Great Queen Street

We couldn’t quite put our fingers on it but something wasn’t quite perfect. After all the hype I was expecting something superlative but Great Queen Street didn’t press all our buttons.

Three out of five dishes were not only good but very good – in our starter salad the beetroot was warm and the curd fresh and light with a perfectly balanced dressing and in our salty duck leg confit with sautéed peas and lettuce a perfect bistro/gastropub marriage.

The muscat crème caramel we shared was a perfect dish – light, sweet and using a gentle touch with the vanilla.

The other two dishes (starter, main) were – a steak tartare without any zing or whiz-bang, no tartness or spice and what was billed as artichoke & broad bean with aioli was in fact a  tomatoey stew that came with the broad beans not fully podded (so consequently a bit bitter and chewy). Neither spectacular and really only ‘ok’.

The room lacked the charm of the Anchor & Hope (where the chef was previously) or the open light of St John Bread & Wine (which it should share many similarities with) being overly dark with the maroon walls and feeling a bit more like a ‘room with tables’ to quote my friend, than either a pub or restaurant. Maybe that qualifies as cutting edge in some books but I couldnt help but feel that it just was a little unfinished.

It wasn’t expensive though, the service was charming and I’m hoping next time to enjoy it a little more. Maybe it’s about expectation management – expect less, be happier with what you get.

32 Great Queen Street
WC2B 5AA
020 7242 0622
Nearest tube: Holborn or Covent Garden
Around £50 for two with a carafe of wine and shared dessert
Map