Another in the seemingly endless line of multipurpose restaurants, Tamarai is about to launch a new Winter menu. I was lucky enough to be invited along to taste some of the scrumptiousness that will be on offer before it gets released to the rest of the world.
It's an unusual proposition - pan-asian but without Japanese and with modern Indian. Typically, pan asian tends to be 'Japanese/Chinese/Thai' focussed. This is a strength and a key differentiator - no Salt & Pepper prawns here - instead we have enormous (as in the size of a childs fist) prawns in a sticky caramel sauce.
No spring rolls but lightly spiced tofu coated in a crisp breadcrumb and a hoisin dipping sauce - delicious and stealthily vegan. Fois Gras is not really my thing these days but coupled with minced beef in a wonton 'pot sticker' it was quite tasty (if a little bit unethical) and very rich. Like its other Pan-Asian companions you can order tasters from each section of the menu without having to regulate yourself to a 'starter/main/dessert' dichotomy. Dessert was quite nice - a fig sprinkled with sugar and given a little blow torch treatment and a flicker of gold leaf, kumquat cream were lovely but the main event - a deep-fried, chocolate coated banana was a little too rich and oily for my taste.
The room is definitely more of a winter venue - black walls with moody red and blue lighting - it is a popular Christmas Party venue and the cocktail and wine list (which is selected by the Guardian's Tim Atkin) has some wonderfullight reds and flavourful whites that complement the excellent food.
Tamarai
167 Drury lane, covent
garden, london
02078319399
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